» Full Bespoke Suit

“Full bespoke” means that I make your suit to your exact specifications using traditional Savile Row techniques and methods. This involves over eighty-four hours of intensive labour, as 170 parts are individually hand cut and sewn together.

The methodology

The jacket and trousers are made using the “single-garment method”, meaning a specialist jacket maker makes the whole jacket whilst a specialist trouser maker makes the trousers.

The size and shape of each of the individual parts are uniquely tailored to your requirements. There will have to be at least several fittings to ensure every detail of the suit meets with your satisfaction and complements your build and personal style.

The suit’s under-structure is hand-stitched, and the seams are sewn in one of up to half-a-dozen different ways, depending on your figure, the type of cloth used, and any number of other subtle variations. Every part of the make is done by hand, barring only the longer seams.

Endless variety

Everything from the style of the suit, the collar and cuffs, the type of buttons, the hand worked buttonholes, and the shape and number of pockets are personalised to your exact specifications. The suit will only ever be considered finished when both of us are satisfied with the results.

The variety of cloths and styles available are as broad as your imagination. Whether it is a regular business suit, a casual jacket, tailcoat, or overcoat; I can oblige. Whatever you want, whatever you need; I can meet your requirements.

Hand Stitched Canvasses

One of the principle reasons our handmade suits are so vastly superior in quality and style is the hand-stitched under-structure.

Your suit’s under-structure is built from layers of wool and mohair, with horsetail woven in. The unique springiness of the horse tail hair means that the under-structure keeps the whole chest area in shape.

These layers of canvas are hand sewn and padded together while simultaneously being curled and shaped. This creates a permanently formed foundation, uniquely crafted to your body, onto which the jacket cloth can be sewn.

Hand Worked Buttonholes

Hand worked buttonholes can be a work of art, when stitched by a talented craftsman, and my suits use the most refined and developed Savile Row techniques.

Each stitch of pure silk is knotted over a strand of thick strengthening cord. This runs around the edge of the buttonhole and protects it from being stretched and or pulled out of shape.

The silk thread used for the stitches resists wear and tear and forms beautiful knots. The end result is a practical and charming finish to a garment that sets itself apart from the conventional machine manufactured clothing.

Several Fittings

Because of the attention to detail paid in the creation of a bespoke garment, it’s impossible to finish without regular check-ups throughout the process.

These additional fittings can lead to me making adjustments of as little as 1/8th of an inch. I also check the shape and construction of the under-structure and canvasses as well as the garment itself. These kinds of subtle changes can have a big impact on the overall fit of your garments.

As one of my clients, you will have a minimum of three fittings, but more may be required. The first rule is that you will have as many fittings as it takes to get things perfect.

Hand Cut

Modern technology has advanced to such a degree that computer aided machines are capable of accuracy and efficiency never previously available.

But no matter how advanced a computer or machine, the skill, technique, and experience of a Pattern Cutter put them to shame. It is a unique partnership of science and art that creates a garment that enhances and compliments, concealing irregularities and flattering form.

My bespoke suits are all hand cut from a pattern drafted by me from scratch. There are no block sizes and no standard shapes. Everything is designed around your unique requirements.

Made to Last – Traditional Construction

While the style of the finished suit can be as contemporary or conservative as you wish, it will be constructed using traditional Savile Row techniques.

Why? Because these methods are the result of centuries of experience and constant experimentation by the best craftsman who have ever lived. These methods produce garments that feel great to wear and are made to last. It’s not uncommon to find a Savile Row suit being worn twenty to thirty years after it was made.

My bespoke suits are all made the traditional Savile Row way, and I have no doubt that you will appreciate the difference.

Near Limitless Choice of Cloth or Design

A bespoke suit can be anything you can imagine. Whatever you desire, I will make for you.

With around 3000 cloths, with many more available if you’re looking for something in particular, the choice is literally endless. I can even commission cloth to be made with your name woven into stripes, or have the lining printed with a favourite photograph or picture.

I will make you a suit in any style you can think of, from velvet collars and turn back cuffs, to contrast jettings and custom embroidery. Throughout the design process I will be on hand to guide you and to ensure that we achieve your vision.

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