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Suit Example 1

Tweed JacketThis jacket looks like any smart jacket really. But it isn’t “any” smart jacket. It’s rather special.

I made it for a top London Chef and entrepreneur. He doesn’t wear suits, but wanted something he could wear casually with jeans, or dress up a little when going out.

The jacket had to be wearable all year round, and he didn’t want anything too heavy, so we settled on this 12oz city tweed. It’s light enough for the summer, and can be worn with a sweater in the winter. I kept the canvas inside light and crisp to hold shape without adding bulk.

He wanted a distinctive look, a little edgy, but something that will also be timeless and elegant. So we created this jacket with lots of detailing, but kept everything based in tradition.

Notice the slanted pockets; they add movement and character giving the appearance of extra shape. They also make the garment less formal than straight pockets.

The pocket jettings have been edged in brown suede, which fits with the country feel but gives it a real focal point.

The buttonholes have been hand sewn in brown silk to match the suede jettings. The cuffs are finished with a single horn button, the house style, again in brown.

The tab collar – again a traditional detail found on country wear, looks great when used on a casual jacket.

And what you can’t see – the underside of the collar is also brown to match the suede, which will look great when the collar is worn up on those windy wintery nights.

If you want something special, just email me at william@williamwestmancott.com and let’s “discuss your requirements” as we say on Savile Row.

Suit Example 2

Bespoke JacketThis jacket is from a suit I made for a client in the City. He has a senior position in the financial markets, dealing with clients.

He is in a bitterly competitive world where many products and services appear much the same, and small differences matter.

Differences such as the impression he makes. How he looks.

He is in his late 30s and wanted something fairly conservative but not dull.

It was important that the quality of the suit matched his high standing, yet wouldn’t seem ostentatious (never outshine your prospect).

With a cloth collection of well over 4000 samples, the hardest part wasn’t finding one cloth that matched the criteria, but narrowing down the multiple options to find ‘the’ one.

Together, we selected this beautiful pure merino wool 10oz cloth. The weight makes it wonderfully light and comfortable, but also versatile enough for all year round wear.

The cloth design is a subtle Glen Urquhart check (often called a Prince of Wales check). A classic design with rich heritage that never fails to look good.

From a distance the suit looks a formal charcoal grey. But when you get a little closer you see the detail.

The check in the cloth gives texture. Look carefully and you see a fine sky blue double over-check, a detail highlighted by the matching sky blue checked lining inside. This gives it character and lightens the effect giving it a contemporary edge whilst still remaining professional.

Look a little closer still and you notice the pocket details. The outside ticket pocket on one side gives it a very English tailored look.

A detail like this is often copied on ready to wear – but somehow not quite the genuine article.

One reason is because that’s not where the detail ends in the kind of suit I make.

Look carefully at the pockets and you see they are bound with contrast jettings. The pipings of those pockets are of a black cloth instead of matching the jacket fabric. A detail followed on the matching trouser pockets.

The black jettings are barely noticed at first glance, and that’s the idea. They don’t scream out at you and draw too much attention, but gently let the viewer know there is something a bit special about this suit.

You’ll see the cuff has just a single button, a unique feature of most William Westmancott suits – it whispers custom-made, without making a brash statement.

It also mirrors the single button front. A one button front gives the suit a slightly contemporary air and makes it wonderfully flattering to the wearer by opening up the chest and highlighting the waist.

The shape of the cut emphasises the waist, the slight skirt below the waist gives flair and balances the weight of the chest.

The chest I’ve cut slim in the front for a clean, sharp and smart look, while the high armhole gives greater freedom and comfort to the wearer.

Naturally the buttons are real horn and the buttonholes are hand-sewn.

At first, you might have thought it just another dark grey business suit. But it is packed full of subtle little details that let even the casual observer know this is no ordinary suit and the person wearing it is no ordinary business man.

Do you see yourself as ordinary, or just a little out of the ordinary? If you e-mail me at william@williamwestmancott.com perhaps we can talk about the sort of tailoring that might suit you, and your position.

Suit Example 3

Double Breasted JacketWe all know that first impressions count. Within seconds we form an opinion that, right or wrong is hard to shift.

This jacket is part of a suit I made for a barrister, so as you would expect, it is full of details specifically chosen to reflect his profession and his character.

When in court there are rules on what can be worn. A suit has to be dark and sober in tone and either a three piece suit or a double breasted jacket.

This client finds he gets hot while working, so we opted for a 10oz cloth – light, but with a high quality yarn so it holds its shape well in wear. For the same reason we went with a double breasted jacket to reduce the layers.

Like it or not, this barrister knows that both judges and juries make assumptions about him and his case based on how he looks and performs.

We opted for a charcoal grey, this colour has proved in research to be the colour people associate as trustworthy and steadfast. The cloth has a very subtle herringbone design in it. This allows the colour to be kept plain, but adds some interest to the look of the fabric.

The lapel is kept bold and high, which gives balance to the extra visual weight in the waist, but also gives a more powerful dominant appearance.

Everything is arranged to balance, to look good without drawing the eye to any particular detail. This is a suit that needs to look impeccable, high quality and traditional, but otherwise never get noticed.

For this reason, there is the traditional 4 button cuff, the most formal arrangement, buttons are matched in highest quality horn.

There are no additional details like ticket pockets or fancy stitching, it’s a suit that is outstanding by blending in.

I suppose what I’m saying is that you wear is more important than you might think in determining your success – and if you agree maybe we should talk.

You can reach me at 0207 060 36 56 or send me an email:william@williamwestmancott.com

Suit Example 4

Grey Tweed JacketHere’s a jacket I made for a lawyer in the city. His office has a smart casual dress policy for days when he isn’t meeting clients. He was after a jacket that he could comfortably wear to the office as well as casually at weekends.

He has a difficult figure to fit (uneven sloped shoulders, forward shoulder points, hollow back, prominent hips etc.) and he also carries a lot of things in his jacket (mobile, work Blackberry, wallet etc.) which we needed to conceal as best as possible.

He loves details in clothing, but wanted to avoid looking stupid and overtly fashion forward. This jacket needed to be classical and timeless whilst on point, current and fashionable.

We went with this 14oz mottled grey tweed. The textured grey jacket has been a favourite in Autumn/Winter collections for many years – It goes with everything. Jeans, chinos, cords etc. and the colour works well for his dark hair and light skin tones.

It was important to keep this jacket looking casual, so it didn’t look like part of a suit. It needed to stand alone.

We added patch pockets – a slightly risky choice because it can over emphasise the hips, but by balancing it with the high, strong lapel and keeping the pockets simple with no flaps I could negate this issue.

The tab collar gave it a casual feel, for the weekend, but could be turned in for work when the mood had to be a little smarter.

Suit Example 5

Grey Tweed Jacket

It’s pretty obvious that if you’re not the same shape as the average person, you won’t look too good in what I can only call average clothes.

I made this jacket for a guy who is very slim and tall. He is late 30s and works in a senior managerial position.

Whilst his role requires he dresses smartly, likes colour and loves cloths with detail. All the suits I have made for him have quite a distinctive, consistent look that in a way sets him apart.

You could say they brand his image.

This cloth doesn’t show up so well on camera, but it is a glorious rich inky blue, with a slight sheen. It has a fine white pinstripe which is edged with a purple stripe, resulting in a cloth that is both smart and contemporary.

The purple in the stripe is picked out by a matching purple lining, the occasional flash of which reveals a little of the personality of its wearer.

The jacket is a little tight on the stand, so the proportion looks a little odd, but it’s a useful example for me to point out a few key features.

Notice that here I’ve cut a three button front. There are two reasons we created this. Since this customer is tall and slim, raising the buttoning stance closes off the chest a little, adding size to the silhouette and balancing the length.

This works perfectly for this gentleman’s figure. The other reason for a three button front is it has a slightly more casual feel to it which suits his relaxed personality.

See also how high the armhole is cut. Most ready to wear has very deep armholes. Proper bespoke tailors cut armholes that fit close under the arm of the wearer. This gives more freedom of movement, looks more elegant – but is unexpectedly far more comfortable. In this photo it looks a little strange, but that’s because it’s made to fit a real person, not the stand.

And finally, this customer is a vegetarian and objects to use of real horn buttons on his suits, so I’ve used imitation horn buttons here. I went to a lot of trouble to hand-pick them – in fact they are so good, they would fool most tailors.

As a tailor, I design and make for you. Your unique size and shape, your unique personality, it’s not about me, it’s about you. My job is simply to make you look good.

If the idea of looking as good as you possibly can appeals, just contact me at william@williamwestmancott.com

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